Why Does My Cat Pee Everywhere?

Whether your cat is old or young, male or female, anxious or mellow, he or she can get the idea that peeing anywhere but the litterbox is a good thing. Many frustrated human beings in the past and present have tried near everything to figure out why the cat does this – and, of course, to solve the problem.

Here are the first things that you should do when your cat insists on stinking up your house. You'll have to be patient while you work your way through this list, but soon your kitty will be back to doing his or her business in an appropriate place.

  • Your cat needs a full health checkup. In many cases, cats pee right in front of you when they're sick. A urinary tract infection (UTI) is one of the most common health problems, which your vet can treat. Even if that's not what's wrong with your kitty, your vet can track down, and solve, the problem.
  • Cats who are older or who have health problems (joint pains, for example), can not get in and out of the litterbox like they could when they were younger. Make the litterbox more accessible so that your kitty can get in and out.
  • The litterbox itself may be a problem. If you have more than one cat, you might need to put out additional litterboxes. The type of litter and how much of it you use can be problems. You should also change the cat litter and thoroughly scrub the litterbox. The plastic tend to absorb urine smells, which can turn off housecats.
  • Sometimes cats will act out by peeing all over your favorite things. This can be a sign that they're unhappy about something. Try giving your cat more (positive) attention. Extra playtime with his favorite toy can cure the behavioral issue. You can also ask your vet about a product that will help soothe your kitty: Feleway is one example.
  • Tomcats often spray anything that they wish to mark as their own territory. Sterilization can improve this problem.
  • Elderly kitties can suffer from feline dementia. They honestly do not realize that they're doing something wrong when they pee all over your clean laundry. Buy housebreaking pads – the disposable kind that people use with puppies – and put them down where your kitty pees the most often. This will not convince her to use the litterbox, but cleanup will be much easier compared to what you're doing now.

You should do a few things when your kitty decides to mark something in your house.

  • Never hit the cat or rub her nose in the mess. Cats are not like human children: they do not understand that what they do is wrong. You can deter behavior as the cat is doing it, but trying to teach the cat after the fact does not work very well. Instead of scolding kitty afterwards, catch her in the act and spritz her with tap water from a spray bottle.
  • Completely clean the marked territory. Even if you can not smell the cat pee, the cat will. That's her sign to continue peeing there. Visit the pet store for a product that removes all of the pet odors.
  • Give your cat plenty of positive attention. Despite the stereotypes that surround felines, cats do bond with their humans. They want our attention and will go to great lengths to get it from us.

Do not worry: you'll track down and solve the problem soon enough. In the meanime, be as patient as possible. Your solution will come and you can resume the carefree relationship

Copyright © 2008, Ian White homesitting.com

Source by Ian White

Feeding Your Pet Stingray – The Essentials of Maintaining a Varied Diet

Stingrays will eat a wide variety of foods. Maintaining a varied diet is extremely important in captive animals, as monocultural diets incur a risk of nutritional deficiencies. Stingrays are very active, and should be fed at least once a day, preferably twice or even three times daily. The daily diet can be varied in order to create some environmental enrichment as well as balanced nutrition for the rays.

First Foods

First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms.
These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be
inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving
the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods
that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small
insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or
glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such
as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should
not be used as sole food items.

The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the
spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating,
you will see the spirals opening and closing quickly, or fluttering, as the
food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once
you observe a newly acquired ray reading feeding on black-worms or redworms
introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays
recognize these as food, most will eat eat them. Later, experiment with
other types of food.

Types of Food

Live Foods

Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate
to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later.
However, when cleaning the substrate, note wherever a significant amount of living
worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if
not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.

Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods

Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic
foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from
decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a
10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide,
so chopped food items must be small enough to be eat easily. If a ray ingests
a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually
indicating that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna
rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.

Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of
food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small
chopped pieces of night crawlers. Sometimes, however, they learn to eat an
entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired
rains also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down
and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.

Commercially Prepared Foods

Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet
foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm
in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods
as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen
or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after them
have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely
than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.


Occidentally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though
you are offering sufficient food. Several things may cause this problem; the most
likely possibility is that it is not competently efficient for food against
other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays
sometimes do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times,
and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases,
it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with
your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend
it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays
are wild animals, and no matter how acclaimed your specimens become to your
presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans.
Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps
Egypt a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear
to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will
quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being
offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps,
and selectively feed it more food.

Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and
hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It
should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow
the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn
to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will
pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!

How Much and How Often

The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of
food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search
constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood,
rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to
a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue
to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any,
they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential
to provide adequate food. I can not stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell
me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate.
Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite
of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between

When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to
add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase,
which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished.
It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893
L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of
the wet-dry filter; Egypt as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly
to the tank.

Source by Brendon Turner

The African Clawed Frog as a Pet

Do you have a child who is long for a pet but can not have one because of allergies? Do you want a low maintenance pet with a long lifespan and few needs? Then the African Clawed Frog is for you.

The African Clawed Frog or Xenopus Laevis is a wonderful pet for people who have allergies or live in a place that does not allow furry pets. They also are great learning tools for schoolrooms and for children to learn about how a frog changes from a tadpole to an adult.

You can purchase a frog from Grow-A-Frog online, or from the fish section of your local department store. These frogs are used extensively in laboratories for research because of the properties of their skin. They used to be used for pregnancy detection before more sophisticated tests were available and were released into the wild in the USA when they were no longer needed. Because the frogs will eat just about anything and have a long lifespan, they started to threaten the local fish and frog populations, and are therefore not legal in some states.


African Clawed Frogs are from the cooler places in Africa. They like to live in areas of stagnant fresh water like ponds, rivers, and pools. For your frog, you will want to buy an aquarium and allow for ten gallons of water per frog. Because your frog breaths air, the water should be six to twelve inches deep so he can swim to the surface easily. The tap water has to sit for 24 hours before you put the frog in it, or use a dechlorinator crystal you can buy from Grow-A-Frog. Frogs are happiest when the water temperature is about 74-78 degrees F, so you may need an aquarium heater. A filter can be used to keep the water clean.

Whether or not to use gravel or stones on the bottom of the tank is debatable. Some frogs will eat the gravel if it is small, and they could die. If the stones are big enough, you could put them on the bottom. Also, provide your frog with some cover to hide, with plastic plants and decorations. Do not use real plants, because your frog will destroy them.

Be sure to have a tight fitting lid on the top of the aquarium. Your frog is a master at escape and can jump right out of most places.

You do not have to use direct light or artificial light for your frog. They like indirect light the best.


African Clawed Frogs are not fussy eaters. You can feed them the prepared fish pellets from Grow-A-Frog, or you can feed them brine shrimp, meal worms, guppies, or Tetra Rept-min. They will even eat the fish in your aquarium, so be careful you do not put them in a tank with little fish.


These frogs have an official lifespan of eight to ten years in captivity, but most African Clawed frog owners will tell you their frogs can live fifteen to twenty + years.


Clean the water once a week, less if you use a filter. Feed him. Watch him (do not hold the frog; they have chemicals in their skin which may cause an allergic reaction for some people). Listen to him sing! (males sing, females do not).


The African Clawed frog if bought as a tadpole is a great learning tool for children. They will get to watch the frog grow from tadpole to adult swimming frog. If you buy a male and a female frog, with some luck, you can watch the mating process and enjoy the babies that may result.

The male frog has interesting vocalizations for different occasions. There is the 'feed me' song, the 'I want a mate' song, and the singing for singing sake song. Both sexes use their front legs to grab and eat, and look like they are begging for more food.

If you want a non-allergic pet with interesting habits and simple requirements, than the African Clawed Frog is for you!

Source by Mary Casey

Choose a Good Dog Breeder & Avoid Puppy Mills and Pet Stores

Many people looking for a new puppy have nothing but good intentions. They buy from a good breeder, or at least what they think is a good breeder. But how can you really tell where your puppy is coming from?

The Truth about Puppy Mills, Pet Stores and Backyard Breeders

The definition for puppy mill is the "breeding operations in which dogs are repeatedly bred for financial gain and are kept in substandard conditions" (SPCA). Sounds pretty straight forward but the reality is much harsher than this.

Dogs from puppy mills and backyard breeders are:

· Kept in dark enclosures with very little lighting
· Unable to escape extreme heat and cold
· Rarely see sunlight
· Live among their own feces and other dead dogs
· Sick; their eyes ooze, their legs full of soars, their coat full of ticks
· Always hungry as they are only fed the bare minimum to keep them alive
· Are bred every single time the female goes in heat
· If lucky, are euthanized humanely, otherwise, cheaper methods are used

It is important to note that pet stores that sell puppies are included in this category because they buy their "stock" from puppy mills and backyard breeders so making them equally guilty.

Do you really want to support this type of inhumane treatment towards dogs?

While you might not actively support this cruelty, many people are often mislead when it comes to purchasing their puppy. Pet stores are deceiving! They are usually the number one carrier of dogs from puppy mills. They rely on impulse shoppers who see a cute young puppy through a window and make a quick decision to get one. You might think that you are saving a puppy but the reality is that you are condemning a mother to producing another litter in unimaginable conditions.

Source by Peter Madrid

Furry Friends I Meet At Work

People everywhere are animal lovers. Whether they have a favorite pet or they just love all animals, if they love them then they probably also love to see pictures of them. When someone sees their pet on the internet they get a renewed feeling of pride about their pet. They want to show their friends and family that someone else thought enough about their pets to take the time to photograph and summarize their pets history.

Children and adults alike just enjoy seeing their furry or feathery or scaly friends in their 15 minutes of fame on the internet. If they can see "Fluffy", "Tuffin" or "Shelly" on the screen it really makes their day. Sharing the story of how they got their pet, their favorite things to play with or their favorite food as well as catching them in action doing the things that critters do, can boost their spirits and re energize their own fascination with their pet.

Often, people forget just how special their pet is until they see it on display. Just as with people's children though, they all kind of know that they have the most beautiful one of whatever it is. Just in case anyone is curious, there are absolutely no critters as cute and loveable as mine so on occasion I just might slip in some photos of my own dogs or cats just to show off and keep these other critters from getting too big for their britches . And by the way, one of my cats, "Fluffy" actually have his own britches. That is why his nickname is "Fluffy Pants".

Source by Bryan Dix

Bearded Dragon Lizard – The Ideal Pet Lizard for Sale

If you're looking for an exotic pet for your children you may want consider the Bearded Dragon Lizard. While most people are squeamish about having a reptile as a pet, you may change your mind once you get to know the Bearded Dragon Lizard better.

Bearded Dragon Lizards are extremely gentle and docile. They make great pets for children and adults. They are very trusting and it may be possible to carry these lizards the first time and they would not mind. This makes them very ideal as pets.

They are loyal and easy to carry around. This is in stark comparison with other pets that may get agitated and may inadvertently hurt their owners. The Bearded Dragon Lizard is in all practicality safe from this kind of danger. So if you're looking for an exotic pet, they may want consider the bearded and lizard.


Bearded Dragon Lizards get their name from their appearance. This is because they have an inflatable flap of skin benefit their jaws. When agitated, these lizards inflate this flap which he then makes to look like a beard. Also, the lizard has the ability to make this flap turn black, further adding to the beard-like look.

Bearded Dragon Lizards are hardy pets. They are found all over Australia and can survive in the desert, in wood lands, or even in populated areas. In fact, these lizards do not mind if there are people in its vicinity. It does not even mind if they are animals in its vicinity.

You could pick it up to get another place and it would not mind. They do not easily feel threatened and will definitely make a gentle and manageable pet. They have an agreeable nature and take a lot to provoke.

Bearded Dragon Lizards can go up to 2 feet in length from tail to head. But even though they reach this length they are definitely manageable by even children. When hatched, the measure about two to 3 inches and incremented steadily in length per week.

Caring for Your Bearded Dragon Lizard

Caring for a Bearded Dragon Lizard is pretty straightforward. These lizards do not need much attention, save for daily maintenance. Aside from this they can pretty much take care of themselves. They easily adapt to most environments, so building a habitat for them should not be much of a problem.

Choosing a Bearded Dragon Lizard

There are ways to find out if the dragon lizard you're looking at is healthy or not. When choosing a Bearded Dragon Lizard make sure you look at its tail. For most lizards, the tail will tell you a good deal about the lizard's health.

If the tail has fat stores then the lizard is probably healthy. If the lizard's tail is bony and has no fat stores, they are probably malnourished or even dehydrated. Try going for healthier lizards when going one for a pet.

Also, look at the lizard's eyes. A healthy Bearded Dragon Lizard should have alerts and clear eyes. Unhealthy Bearded Dragon Lizards have unhealthy eyes that are sunken due to dehydration.


A Bearded Dragon Lizard is a great addition to a family as a pet. Not only are they low-maintenance, they are also very gentle and easy to handle. They are definitely the paradigm of the ideal pet. Now if only other pets could be this easy to handle and this agreeable.

Source by Michael Torresi

Boa Information

The word Boa is the name for snakes in the family Boidae, which are capable of bearing live young; they are found mostly in America (North and South). The family Boidae also contains Pythons capable of laying eggs, along with some of the largest snakes on the planet, and some of the smallest ones. Snakes in the boa family contain two lungs instead of one, and the remainders of hind limbs; the primitive characteristics shown by Boa’s are evidence of their similarities to lizards. Both of the two minuscule leg bones end with a tiny, spiky claw.

To catch their prey, Boa’s strike with their large fangs and hurl their bodies into a crushing vice-like grip around the victim. Then the Boa squeezes its prey, so that it is unable to breath, and eventually it suffocates. Like many types of snakes, Boas tend to swallow their prey whole. There are over 30 different Boa species found from South America to Mexico, with the greatest variety existing in the tropic regions. Boas mainly come under three different groups of Boa: Terrestrial, Burrowing (In sandy places such as Deserts) and Aboreal (Tree Snakes).

Some Boas are exquisitely coloured, such as the Emerald Tree Boa. By far, the best known Boa is the Boa Constrictor, whose habitat is a number of terrestrial habitats from Central Argentina to South Mexico. It has brown markings along its back, commonly a diamond shape. It is one of the longest and thickest of all snakes.

These snakes are not a good choice of pet for those looking for a beginner’s exotic/reptilian pet. They need a very large amount of space and regular feeding, as well as lots of care and looking after. Make sure their diet is supplemented well and that you have a good insurance provider in case anything goes wrong, as always.

Source by Lorraine H O’connor

What Does a Vet Intern Do?

An veterinary internship is designed to give exposure to a wide variety of small animal specialist work in each of the disciplines that a vet can specialise in. Each distinct discipline – orthopaedics, soft tissue surgery, medicine, cardiology, anaesthesia and radiology is led by specialists in that field who act as supervisors and mentors to the interns when they are dealing with their own case load. This close and continued supervision combined with a varied and interesting case load gives great all round experience, building confidence and skills along the way.

Specialist veterinary care is a 24/7 life. Pets in hospitals and surgical centres are often looked after overnight by the interns who work a shared shift pattern. This means that your pet is being looked after by a qualified vet who is skilled and fresh and hasn’t been working all day and then expected to stay up all night, that would be a recipe for disaster. Overnight there will usually be a specialist from each discipline on call ready to assist the interns in dealing with emergency cases or hospitalised pets requiring intensive care.

In orthopaedics, interns are typically involved during surgery by acting as a scrub assistant or by taking x-rays. If they are monitoring an anaesthetic, be it for a medical or surgical procedure they will be doing so under the close guidance of one of the trained and fully qualified anaesthetists to allow the interns to gain experience to take with them in preparation for the day when they are in charge. A varied medicine and cardiology case load means that when the interns do go either into general practice or start their own specialist training program, they already have the necessary experience to diagnose and treat such cases.

Intern training programs are designed to support continued learning and development with an intensive seminar series at the start of the internship, followed up by regular tutorials and daily case discussions. Each intern is usually encouraged and supported in writing a scientific paper. Recent work by interns has been published in veterinary journal such as The Vet Record and Journal of Small Animal Practice. Prior to publication each intern presents their work at a scientific meeting – a daunting but necessary task!

If you are a pet owner and want to thank interns for the care your pet has received, most vet practices will have a standard procedure for thanking them.

Source by Gaz Hutchings

A Mouse For A Pet

Domestic mice have been bred to be friendly and calm. Breeders try to pair of the most intelligent and friendly mice together. The best way to locate a healthy mouse is to find a breeder. Usually the best way to find a breeder is your local newspaper or check with your local pet shop.

Mice should be kept together with two or more together make for more social mice. Breeders normally tell you not to put males together unless they are brothers from the same litter. Some owner would rather have only one mouse. The single mouse can still be happy and healthy if you spend plenty of time playing with it.

Remember until the mouse is use to playing with you and is not afraid. After the mouse is use to you it will walk into your hand as soon as you reach for it. If you need to pick up a frightened mouse softly pinch the base of the tail. The way I catch mine is to place a paper towel tube in the cage and the mouse walks right in and I pick up the tube holding both ends.

Wild mice are scavengers and will eat anything they can find, but it is so simple to go to the pet store and buy mouse food. These foods are very nutritious and healthy for your mouse. You need to provide a variety to their meals by giving those treats like small amounts of green vegetables like broccoli, apple, carrots, or dry bread.

Mice only need a small space to live and play; this makes mice a perfect pet for people in a small apartment. One of the best homes for mice is the glass aquariums. They have solid walls and you can pile lots of bedding for the mice to snuggle down into. Bedding can be shredded newspaper, but store bough liner will do a better of controlling odor. It is also helps keep it more sanitary.

Source by Ruth Hoepfinger

How to Choose the Right Pet Ramp Or Stairs

First of all, veterinarians have seen increasing problems in older pets, such as back problems, arthritic joints and muscle degeneration. Most daily routines of normally active pets involve jumping or climbing to lay on a bed, get in or out of a car, sit in a favorite chair, and so on. All too often, pets can experience pain as a first sign, and can begin to shy away from normal routines. They can become afraid of new experiences and their personalities can begin to change based on fear of doing something that could hurt.

On the other side, the pet parent is now forced to constantly lift and carry their best friend, avoiding any further pain or discomfort by putting themselves at risk. Many larger breed dogs can weigh more than half as much as their pet parents, which really sets the stage for potentially harmful results.

For a reasonable amount of money, potential pain, harm and injury to both pet and person can be avoided! The simple use of a pet ramp and pet steps or stairs can significantly reduce the risk of injury, help your loved pet regain their sense of independence, and can enhance the happiness between pet and parent.

Pets steps or stairs are the perfect choice when a somewhat permanent need must be addressed, such as when your doggie sleeps at the foot of your bed each night, but is having a hard time getting up or down. Choose steps that are not too steep, with large enough footing to make stepping up or down easy for your pet. Choose pet steps or stairs that are approximately the right height for your bed, chair or other pet spot, and choose a model that fits into the design and color of the room it will be in.

Pet ramps are generally used where the need is more portable. Entering and exiting cars or trucks is a great time to use a pet ramp. Pet ramps can make it easier to get your pet on a grooming table, in or out of your boat, or maneuvering around while on vacation. Use a pet ramp to go to the vet, on a camping trip, or just about anywhere else that your pet might need a change in height to live as normally as possible.

Many pet parents are realizing that incorporating pet ramps and pet steps or stairs into their younger pet’s life is a great idea. Younger pets are less likely to develop muscle or joint problems from repetitive impact when they’re older, if they have to spend less time making awkward or difficult jumps as part of their everyday routine. This is a great way to help keep your pet healthy and safe around your home.

Smaller pets, such as toy breed dogs, can be especially vulnerable. The world is a much larger place for them, and even a small step off a couch can feel like we would if we jumped off the roof of our house – a little scary and wishing we had a ramp!

When choosing a pet ramp, make sure it is strong enough and long enough. Consider the weight of your pet, and make sure the pet ramp can safely hold the weight. Consider the distance of the most common uses for your ramp, such as getting in and out of your vehicle. Take a tape measure or something solid and measurable, such as a broom handle, and measure the distance between several inches inside your car door to the ground, at a safe and sloping angle that your pet could walk down. Make sure the ramp is long enough to work at this “safe length”.

Ramps need to go with you, so two other important features that most pet parents appreciate are lower weight and the ability to fold up. Lower weight makes carrying and setting the ramp up a much easier task. If your ramp folds, it takes up less room in vehicle or home, and will telescope out or unfold to fit your needs. Lastly, make sure it has a non-slip surface to make it easier for your pet.

So there you have it. Purchasing a pet ramp as well as pet steps or pet stairs can give an older pet more independence and will allow you to enjoy the things you always did when your pet was younger. You can go to places that you had given up on and most of all you’ve given your pet a much better quality of life. Younger pets can greatly benefit by avoiding hard jumps and falls. Perhaps best of all, you can avoid personal injury to yourself, without guilt, while you enhance the bond between you and your pet!

To learn more about pet ramps, and to read many informative pet articles that enhance the bond between pet and pet parent, visit our new website by clicking: Wipe Paws Here!

Source by Bill VS